Tibau do Sul, a place to call your own

Tibau do Sul, a place to call your own

deserted beaches dolphins exclusive resort lagoons Rio Grande do Norte stand up paddle Tibau do Sul

adword January 16, 2011 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

As I told you before New Year´s Eve, I was going to hide myself in one of those special hubs of the northeast, a place called Tibau do Sul.
Since the last decade, I´ve been coming to this hidden gem where you are bound to find deserted beaches even during high season and holidays.

Considering that I wanted to break my city-style routine, Tibau do Sul has a clutch of luxurious attributes, such as no routine, to begin with. And no internet around, too.
Next, you become an early bird even if this doesn´t appetize you. The breeze crossing leisurely across the coconut leaves sounds like a wake up call - and music along the day.

Breakfast with an overview – the sea, the skyline of sandy beaches in the horizon, the blue sea, the mood of the tide…Then a stroll in the village, with a shopping list – what are we having for lunch??? Check with the fisherman´s stock, right across the bakery.

When the tide starts to get lower, natural small swimming pools form all along the shore. The water is translucid. You just have to dip in it, with a book in your hand, tons of sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and soak in the warmth of the rays.

If you´re the sportive kind of guy, then get ready to surf among dolphins in the Praia do Madeiro, test your skills with a paddle on stand-up boards on the lagoon, go for a horseriding adventure on the beach, challenge your fear by being a passenger on a parapente experience – the professional who will be piloting is an expert, so don’t worry….Or just hire a buggy and explore the surrounding beaches, either by going north or south on the dunes and sand. No toll road in these itineraries.

And as far as food is concerned, you shall spoil yourself rotten on fresh produce from the sea, plus coconut water, capirinhas, cold beer and fusion food in many restaurants of nearby Pipa. This fishermen´s village was once what Tibau used to be, but lost its tranquility to fancy hotels, fashionable tourism and rock´n roll.

On the other hand, expect to eat well and choose from Thai to tapas, including French, Italian, Peruvian, and, naturally, regional potiguar (originally from Rio do Grande do Norte state) specialities.

But if you´re too lazy to turn on the engine of the car and drive 6 kilometers, then you can still relish on the fresh oysters which can be ordered in some of the unsophisticated restaurants of Tibau. Or typical dishes such as bobó de camarão ( a recipe blending shrimps, coconut milk, turnip and fresh herbs), washed down with a chope – beer from the tap.

Then, as you are in the northeast, there are hammocks in every corner of the house, including on the terrace, in which you feel obliged to take a nap every afternoon, after (late) lunch.

Pipa & Tibau do Sul for the sun and simple life!

Pipa & Tibau do Sul for the sun and simple life!

Natal Pipa praias desertas restaurantes Rio Grande do Norte surfe Tibau do Sul windsurfe

adword September 06, 2010 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

This year´s New Year´s Eve is certainly not to be cheered: it´s just a simple weekend, so if you fancied a looooooong one, call this a Saturday and Sunday, with (maybe) a twist on Friday after lunch. That will, naturally, make you avoid thinking about making plans for a faraway destination. And you will now think it´s much too early to worry and, even if you would be the most creative person living on this planet, there wouldn´t be enough creativity to stretch the days – no matter how long they are in summer.


All this to tell you about one of the few places that deserves a handful of sacrifices and time consuming, even if it means spending ONLY a weekend. To tell the truth, I would rather conceal the existence of Pipa and Tibau do Sul, two small villages nestled in the northeastern state of Rio Grande do Norte, not far from capital Natal…

Why ? For the past decade, this place has been my favorite haunt and quite often chose it as the perfect hub to spend my husband´s birthday. It´s the ideal destination for so many reasons that I can only think of the most precious one: sun and simple life.

For the rest, just take a good look at these images and then reach your own conclusion. How much exactly would you endure to…

Imagine many stretches of pristine sand framed by high cliffs of pink sandstone which seems as if they will slowly be wiped away by the constant breeze…And the sea, so warm that even I spend half of my beach-not-to-bother-time in the water, trying the old “boadyboarding” exercise. In case you are not familiar with this sport, it consists on sliding down ( very gently) on the waves, using only your body as a support. It´s a delicious sensation. And kids love it.

But you can, of course, surf, windsurf, walk for miles, enjoy the great outdoors and many other activities which are offered either by nature or in the villages Pipa and Tibau do Sul.

Though only apart 4 kilometers from each other, the two villages differ in almost everything. Though both have an exceptional location, the beaches in Tibau are exceptionally deserted, even during high season. On the other hand, there´s not even a glimpse of the glamour that you´ll find in Pipa, a niche for good restaurants, luxurious hotels, boutiques and shops lined along the main and only street.

An unknown fishermen´s village a couple of decades ago, Pipa also attracted surfers and hippies, until these two gems were discovered by the human predator (tourist). You may not think of yourself as an eco-conscious, but when you get to know this paradise, a inner voice will tell you that those many new condominiums should have been banned from the stunning landscape in the first place.

And that cars should also be banned from the main street, mostly during weekends and high peaks. Crowds of tourists, many Europeans ( yes, the Old Continent is aware of Pipa´s existence and nailed it so precisely on the map that a Portuguese carrier introduced very successfully daily direct flights from its capital!)

On the other hand, Tibau kept its characteristics of a simple fishermen´s hub and became the dream retreat of those who want to have the best of both worlds. No nightlife, no main street buzz, no shopping malls, just a couple of very charming hotels ( but I would add that luxuries can be translated into many things and therefore cannot be compared) and a provincial atmosphere.

So, the best of both worlds is staying in Tibau and once a day, or every other day, or just when you feel the itch to go, drive for ten minutes into Pipa, preferably after 7 p.m , and choose one of the cozy restaurants to have dinner. Then stroll back and forth on the main street, appreciate the world-go-by and the beautiful people. When you get tired, pick up your car and drive back to Tibau. Everyone in the village is fast asleep, and so there´s no noise, no loud music or hangovers-on-the-road to disturb a quiet night.

So, it may make you purple with envy, but as I was mentioning about New Year´s Eve, I must confess that I will be in Tibau during the last Saturday and Sunday of 2010. And for the previous weekend too…and the following one. Well, I did the impossible: I stretched the last weekend of the year into 10 simple days to be spent under the sun in paradise, swimming with dolphins by my side.

Atol das Rocas : untouchable hell or heaven?

Atol das Rocas : untouchable hell or heaven?

atol das rocas Ibama Natal Rio Grande do Norte translucid sea

adword August 10, 2010 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

When I look at those pics, I always remember this friend of mine who was telling us about his wonderful trip to the Atol das Rocas, a small atoll stranded 81 miles away from the island of Fernando de Noronha (which belongs to the State of Pernambuco) and 144 miles from the city of Natal ( capital of the State of Rio Grande do Norte).

He described his diving and swimming in an extraordinarily transparent sea, surrounded by tens of species of fish, some of which he also targeted for dinner time.

And feasted on lobsters freshly caught. He also pointed out that there were lots of fishermen´s boats around, and the men were catching sea turtles with their nets. Oh, yes, by the way, of course this friend was also aboard, though just a sailing boat.

This story is true, but – and a BIG BUT – took place almost 35 years ago.
By this I mean that, today, these scenes would be absolutely impossible to witness, as the Atoll is now a Biological Reserve submitted to the severe rules of the IBAMA , a governmental organ which is responsible for the environment.

But, when browsing at the pictures, your first thought is that this place is absolutely stunning and could be a reflection of a perfect destination in every detail. Wildlife, an uncommon transparency of the water and white stretches of deserted sandy beaches.

Paradise? At first sight, truly saying, yes. But when you think that there´s no fresh water whatsoever and no shade ( under a year-long temperature of over 40ºC) except under a palm tree which actually has been recently “imported” from the continent to this oasis, you´ll probably believe it otherwise.

That if God had created the world to look like this Atoll, then he would have made us with wings…..

Sorry, but you won´t find a mention of the Atoll in the main guides ( though you can certainly find excellent travel and photography books on it), as nowadays it´s almost out of reach and certainly unconceivable as far as a tourist destination is concerned.

And should I add, inaccessible even if you manage to get close to it – which would be by boat, but even if you do throw your anchor one mile away ( the authorized distance) from the Atoll, and consider yourself “in loco”, you wouldn´t even be allowed to take an innocent dip in the warm pristine water.