Showing posts with label surf. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surf. Show all posts

Saturday, 25 December 2010

New Year´s Eve resolutions



by Antonella Kann

As I told you a while before, I´m off to one of the most amazing spots in the northeastern shore of Brazil - Tibau do Sul, in the state of Rio Grande do Norte.
There will be dolphins swimming by my side, dunes and miles of sandy beaches to stroll on, coconut water galore and peace.
And NO internet.
So, I apologise for those who will feel a bit postless for a few days, but it´s only a matter of days, really, while I´m spending New Year´s Eve in one of my favorite places. And as you can´t have it all, not being connected is the only caveat.
The good news is that everything that´s new will be transmitted to you as soon as I come back.
Have a happy New Year and try to make as many resolutions as you can.
Mine are: to travel more in 2011 and keep you posted even more next year!




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Monday, 25 October 2010

A taste of honey: Ilha do Mel , a sweet island.


by Antonella Kann

I had heard about the Ilha do Mel a long time ago. Sort of place you tell yourself “one day I shall go”. But it took me ages. Finally, by mid September, there came the opportunity.




Located in the southern State of Paraná, this tiny island is the sort of haven to visit off peak, as in high season its golden beaches are overcrowded by tourists from nearby capital, Curitiba.


Before booking our pousada Grajagan Surf Resort (www.grajagan.com.br) - I browsed the net to search for the more starred accommodations. Unfortunately, there were none to be found.





Note that although I love being pampered, I am not the kind of person to sulk about the rusticity of a hotel or complain easily about whatever caveats there might be found in a room, but I knew that this destination had been definitely launched by hippies and surfers, a brand of visitors whose interpretation of comfort or luxury do not go beyond peaceful sights and perfect waves – respectively.

As we headed in the taxiboat to cross from the continent to the island, the weather turned grey and rainy. I had checked and was aware that we might run into a cold weekend and this worried me. There would be nothing to do if the temperature dropped even a couple of digits. September is not a warm month in the south of Brazil.




If you have a penchant for natural environment and preserved hippie era atmosphere, the Ilha do Mel has it all. The whole island is car free, with sandy streets, scattered villages with fishermen´s houses and a handful of simple inns and lodges, art crafts sold in tourist shops near the harbors.



Lucky us, next morning the sun made its appearance against all predictions. So, after a hearty breakfast we planned our day: a long walk around part of the island, exploring a couple of well known touristic sites like the Encantada´s Cavern. Along the way, extensive stretches of white sandy beaches.




I would call the Ilha do Mel a refuge for those seeking an escape from civilization, but not a place to be in summer or during holiday period. Nature lovers will not want to share the island with hundreds of visitors. If ever there´s a time to go, choose March through November.


A world away from hip seaside resorts and other trendy beach temples, the “honey island” also attracts surfers in search of good waves year-round.



Although we had fun, I left the island with a sweet and sour aftertaste. In order to attract another type of visitors – and more investments - local authorities should reinvent the facilities and give the accommodations as well as the restaurants a makeover.















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Monday, 1 March 2010

FERNANDO DE NORONHA: number one destination in Brazil


by Antonella Kann


The archipelago of Fernando de Noronha, with 17 km2, easily hooks anyone who has the faintest fantasy of what paradise looks like, and is anyone´s stuff of dreams with 15 paradisiacal beaches. Until 1938 it used to be a penal colony and now it´s a National Park submitted to the strict environmental rules of the IBAMA ( Instituto Brasileiro do Meio Ambiente ).
But tourism definitely is the main industry of the island. Most of its 3 thousands inhabitants, who originate from almost every state of Brazil and also from different other countries are busy doing business with tourists. But bear in mind that everything is a rip-off, mainly because except for home-made bread, all the goods are imported from the continent. There´s nothing to buy for R$ 1,00 ( U$ 0,35). Even a bottle of mineral water will cost R$ 2,50 (U$0,89), a pizza can reach R$ 30,00 (U$ 10,70) .

The sea is crystal-clear, there are natural pools, perfect aquariums with plenty of fishes to swim with, there is beauty and tranquility in every inch of nature and… there are the dolphins. Noronha´s warm tropical climate guarantees temperatures around 26 Celsius all year round, but with two distinguished periods – dry and rainy seasons. Best time is March, June, September, October and December (before New Year´s Eve): the weather is sunny, the sea is quite calm and the prices are lower than January, February and July ( school holidays). Avoid April by all means, as it rains steadily.


Bearing in mind that everything you are supposed to do is outdoors, the day must begins quite early. You can hike around the whole island in man-made trails along the coastline, framed between the sea and rocky landscape. Many people just rent a bike, a scooter or simply walk. Hitchhiking is also a regular practice. But take note: the most popular way to get moving around the island is with the buggy, – a typical convertible jeep with a VW engine – and the only type of car on the island. If you want to get intimate with Noronha ( which you MUST!), do not hesitate to rent one, even though the price is outrageous. But do ask your hotel for the car well in advance, or you´ll end up walking (and public transportation is quite inexistent). But watch out: although there is only one road, the local police considers applies the driving regulations of the continent. So expect to be urged to wear your seatbelts in the front (though in the back you are perched like a bird on a branch) or else...you risk a heavy fine.




With a map of the island, it´s really easy to get acquainted with all the beaches in a blink of an eye. Most of them are linked to each other through passes and trails, so consider walking, exploring three or four every day. Chances are that most of the time you´ll have a very large stretch of sand just to yourself. Pigs´Bay, between Sancho (considered to be the most beautiful in Brazil!) and Cacimba do Padre´s beaches will definitely cause an impression, even stronger if your glance is from the top of the cliff: it looks like a painting.

Although there are several little inns, refurbished bed& breakfast and simple accomodations around the island, those searching comfort and service should choose one of these two pousadas:
Pousada Maravilha www.pousadamaravilha.com.br . You can´t get better than that in a 5 star hotel on the continent. This establishment offers spacious and secluded bungalows, magnificient views over the Sueste Bay, plus sauna, a huge swimming pool and sophisticated restaurant to pamper its guests. Luxury guaranteed, although extremely pricey all year-round, even by international´s standards. Breakfast included and served in-room at no extra cost.





Offering much more flexibility of rates than Maravilha´s, Pousada Zé Maria www.pousadazemaria.com.br is the ideal place to stay with your family. The view to the Pico´s Mount is incredible and there´s the Conceição Beach ( think surf!) at the tip of your fingers. The food is reasonable and the owner a local character full of charm. The establishment is one of the oldest b&b of the island but has been refurbished and given an upgrade. Sauna & swimming pool with a view. Now almost all the 19 bungalows are air conditioned and have mini bar, cd player, and plasm TV. Ask for room 6 if you come with children, as you get two connected but independent rooms and a jacuzzi on the terrace with overwhelming view of the Pico´s Mount. Total privacy assured but be sure to make reservations way ahead.

The two hotels provide transportation to and from the airport, which is situated no more than a few minutes away. But do not bother about whatever noise can a nearby airport affect your vacation – there are only two flights a day, and depending on where you are standing, you don´ t even have to look at your watch: just by the sight of the plane approaching or leaving, you´ll know what time it is.




One last tip about the “Paradise Fee”: check www.noronha.com.br

Don´t forget to check this site, as you can fill in the “immigration” form (there´s an English version) through the web and print it. There´s an entry fee to pay, which you can do in a Brazilian bank, on the continent. It will save you time! The crowd at the airport is always a tantrum, as the only two daily flights leave and arrive almost at the same time (believe it or not!). When you are leaving, you must return part of the form so the authorities check if your stay is not overdue. And if it is, you´ll be charged double for each extra day you spent without previous authorization. Well, all this doesn´t enhance your fantasy about being in paradise, but once you get intimate with the place, there´s really nothing that will deceive you anymore.




Wednesday, 24 February 2010

Itacaré: surfers´paradise and eco-tourism par excellence!


the deserted beach of Itacarézinho

by Antonella Kann

Let´s continue talking about Bahia's paradisiacal beaches. Itacaré was rediscovered by hippies and surfers in the late 80´s and since then the range of open-air activities have been attracting enthusiasts for its perfect waves as well as nature worshipers.

Inhabited by the Tupiniquin Indians until the arrival of the Europeans in 1530, Itacaré reached its economic peak with the cultivation of cocoa beans. But, with the decline of this product, the place fell into complete isolation for centuries.

However, as many other idyllic havens, nowadays its white sandy beaches bring a flow of visitors from abroad, which means that in the bustling streets of the small village it´s common to hear foreign languages ranging from English to Norwegian, with a good sprinkling of French, German and Italian.

To meet the increasing demand, the hotel network has been upgraded, the restaurants have reviewed their menus and there´s a proliferation of specialized tour operators offering a wide range of open air activities and adventures.


Think anything from tree-climbing, canoeing and rafting, off-road trips, mountain biking, trekking, bathing in waterfalls, all part of extensive programs designed to get the adrenaline pumping. And, of course, there is surfing, which is the main attraction for most of the visitors.



Small or long beaches surrounded by thick vegetation, strong waves or a bay with calm waters and endless coconut groves…all these attributes can be used to describe the sandy stretches framing Itacaré. Most of the beaches are deserted, such as Itacarézinho, regarded as one of the most exotic in the region.




There you will also find a charming resort, the Txai ( http://www.txai.com.br/ ) which besides being one of the loveliest and best designed hotels in Bahia, with luxurious installations, has a spa called Shamash, which means “forest medicine”. Here, leisure goes way beyond the excellent cuisine and the soft touch of Egyptian cotton sheets.