Maison d´Hôtes, blissfully unpeopled, as if you were in your own house.

Maison d´Hôtes, blissfully unpeopled, as if you were in your own house.

guest house intimidade Maison d´Hotes privacidade São Conrado Zanine

adword April 03, 2011 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

You really don´t have to stay in one of the expensive or tourist-trap hotels in Rio on your next visit. You may not have considered, but there are several other options off-the-beaten track which come in handy when you have no desire to melt your credit card: guest houses and hostels have been popping all over the scenery, offering cozy, intimate and luxurious accomodation within range of the city´s interesting places.

Although this alternative doesn´t come out cheap, it´s still a good choice. Because instead of being a tourist, you might prefer to feel like a local. And in your own house.

Last month I visited the Maison d´Hôtes ( Estrada das Canoas 2600 http://www.tuakasa.com.br/) in the neighborhood of São Conrado – very close to where I lived for most of my life, actually. The location, blissfully unpeopled, seems to be in the middle of nowhere, but even if you are an urbanite, the exciting sites are only ten minutes away by car. By coincidence, this exceptionally charming guesthouse belongs to a friend of mine.

It was starting to pour heavily when I arrived at this spectacular house partly designed by well known brazilian architect Zanine. When Claudio Chagas Freitas met me at the gate, he was as surprised to see me as I was to meet again after more than three decades. Rio is a small town, we cariocas use to say. When you least expect, you bump into someone you´ve known as a teenager!

Well, Claudio used to live in this beautiful three story house with his son Matteo. A few years ago, Matteo came back from Switzerland with a hotelier degree from one of the most prestigious schools. Of course, he had an idea in mind: to transform their home into a guest house.

Needless to say that it took quite a lot of persistence and work to neatly refurbish what is now one of the most stylish hub for a tourist to entice his holiday in Rio.

It´s intimacy in a luxurious setting is combined with incredibly comfortable suites . The hospitality, as if you were staying with pals, is provided by both father and son.

But nothing can prepare you for the awesome views from the terrace over the Pedra da Gávea…It´s even more impressive during a thunderstorm…

Having fun with quads in Urubici, Brazil´s coldest region.

Having fun with quads in Urubici, Brazil´s coldest region.

coldest region of Brazil european landscape quad aventures urubici

adword March 05, 2011 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

You´ve probably thought that I´ve lost my compass in Santa Catarina and am still enjoying the blissful Ponta dos Ganchos´resort. Oh, well, I wish! But, although it´s not my purpose to let this blog go blank for so long, I´ve had internet problems which didn´t allow me to connect and post anything for you.

So, here I am, but not far from Florianópolis, Santa Catarina´s capital. Actually, from the sea we continued our trip towards the mountain range of Boqueirão, 174 km southwards. The roads were good, and gradually we felt that the temperature was getting lower by the minute.

Landscapes renowned as “european regions” are common along the way, as German, Swiss and eastern European immigrants came by the thousands before, during and after WW2. They chose the highest peaks of the Serra do Mar to install their homes and business, where the cooler climate and the vegetation reminded them of their hometown. Local gastronomy and architecture are by far the most characteristic of these foreign cultures.

When we reached our destiny, Urubici - where temperatures are known to dive down to minus 17 in winter time- our coats were already out of the suitcase.

We had an adventurous weekend to look forward to, which was driving quads all around the countryside, which is dotted by pine trees, green meadows, scenic canyons, waterfalls and rivers. Remote farmhouses don´t get more rural than those through which we drove past. The most astonishing views were, unfortunately, covered by fog and heavy clouds.

As I said, we were driving 4x4 quads, which can climb or slide down, well, whatever crosses your mind. In fact, we were on a off-road adventure, but nothing to be fearful about: anyone with a bit of common sense and ability can drive those powerful machines.I tried not be haunted by the memory of incidents and took it quite naturally that we were just soaked to the bone when it started to rain seriously. It didn´t spoil our day, but surely spoiled my pictures. So, I won´t have so many to post, but I can guarantee that next quad trip will be during a dry period.

My friends, the owners of quad tour operator Trip Tur ( www.triptur.com.br) are planning great expeditions, day trips and adventures for 2011, so if you are keen to face some challenge, and experience new sensations, you should check what´s the best option for you. No experience needed, only a way to manage a few drops of adrenaline in your mind.

Ponta dos Ganchos : a treat in heaven

Ponta dos Ganchos : a treat in heaven

exclusive resort Ponta dos Ganchos relais et chateaux santa catarina Virtuoso

adword February 15, 2011 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

You would need to split your day hourly in 24 and keep a watch on time if you´d have to linger over every little bit of Ponta dos Ganchos. And I am serious: this hotel, tucked high up at the far end of a fisherman village called Ganchos, less than an hour from Florianópolis´airport, is a tiny sample of what paradise should look like. Even more: it´s how you´d probably expect to be treated once in heaven.

Besides being a rich relaxation experience, you´ll feel impossibly pampered from the moment you set foot in this gorgeous setting, surrounded by private luxurious suites which feature… – don´t try to guess, as I´ll tell you soon enough. With a tag of Relais & Chateaux, and a Virtuoso label, nothing is best than the best for the guest.

So, the Ponta dos Ganchos was the place I elected as the best to celebrate, erh, our 32 years of togetherness. It really deserved to be special. But nothing could prepare us for being treated like celebrities in this stylish environment .

The place is, you´ve guessed right, an exclusive retreat, with a dashing assemblage of scenic views – our suite had the most amazing one cascading into the sea, dotted with colored fishermen´s personal nets – high end gastronomy – Chef Laurent Suadeau is one of the consultants - and the best equipped accommodations ever.

We had, in approximately 230sq meters, nothing less than a king size bed, a private sauna, a Jacuzzi, two showers, two bathrooms with l´Occitanne amenities, a terrace with a couch, a small infinite pool (heated, if you´d just turn on the button) and lounging chairs. We were surrounded by dozens of towels, robes, a nespresso machine, a mini bar free of charge for non-alcoholic beverages plus snacks, a fireplace (the State of Santa Catarina can easily offer alpine temperatures in winter months) a comfy couch to watch movies or tv on a 50” flat screen… everything spread around strategically, not to mention the bottle of Imperial Brut in a bucket full of ice, offered on our arrival.

To stroll around the resort, we either walked the pathways or called the golf cart to pick us up. It happened twice as summer storms caught us by surprise right after lunch on one day and right before the siesta on the small private beach, the next afternoon. Yet barely a stone´s throw from our bungalow, someone quickly appeared to rescue us back to number 23 of the new wing of luxurious accommodations.

We sure missed a couple of sunset, unfortunately. Dark clouds didn´t seem to leave the area, and although we had a glimpse of white sand while chasing some beams of sun on the following morning, the weather wasn´t terrific. But, as you may conclude, the Ponta dos Ganchos isn´t the sort of hotel where you get bored if you are “ stuck” in your room. And also, there´s a Dior Spa to invigorate your spirit on a rainy afternoon. Massages, treatments…Oh, well, I know, tell me, it´s tiring to live like royalty.

But I could easily get used - or should I say addicted? - to it. Needless to say that we did manage to combine several activities with this romantic escapade. A nice guided walk to a nearby deserted beach, a boat ride on an authentic fisherman´s boat to explore the region and observe the oysters and clam´s local breeding, as well as kayaking, all organized within the premises.

Check this out: miniature benedict egg for breakfast, followed, combined or along with a choice of nine other little dishes among bread, hot and cold sandwiches, yogurts...Sophistication and presentation are present in every meal, besides surprising guests by "engraving" their names with chocolate on the coffee. Causing emotion is a key factor in the immaculate service.

Maybe in the near future the Ponta dos Ganchos will be the destination on everybody´s lips – though I would prefer to keep this gem to myself – but right now it´s an ideal and year-round serene destination, a stylish paradise with perfect service, known to those people who have the talent to concoct all these ingredients of hospitality with the art of choosing well.

Ponta dos Ganchos
http://www.pontadosganchos.com.br/
tel. 48 3262 5000

Le Relais de Marambaia : a room with a view – the best in Rio – far from the madding crowd!

Le Relais de Marambaia : a room with a view – the best in Rio – far from the madding crowd!

deserted beaches guesthouse Pedra de Guaratiba Relais de Marambaia

adword February 01, 2011 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

Few places in Rio reveal such a magnificent view as the one from Le Relais de Marambaia´s five exclusive suites. The caveat is its location, tucked-away in Pedra de Guaratiba, a neighborhood which is only 20-some kilometers away from Leblon, but quite a burden to reach if you are caught in heavy traffic jam. The area nearby is also home to the famous gardens of Roberto Burle Marx. So get ready to enjoy more than an overnight stay.


But, if you are smart, schedule your departure (from any place in town) before three o´clock in the afternoon, so you´ll get there earlier than I did and nothing can prepare you for the stunning sunset which can be admired from the swimming pool as well as from the terrace of your comfortable suite.

I was itching to get there and planned an escape in the middle of the week, in order to enjoy this sun + relaxation program with my husband. Although we missed the best part, we could still relax with a couple of caipirinhas in our hand. The nice kiwi and passion fruit drinks were delicious and therefore we could recover our energy and consider tasting a menu featuring seasonal produce – shrimp, fish, crab…

An ideal year-round destination, the Relais de Marambaia is one of the many guesthouses which opened in Rio lately. It belongs to a French citizen and is run by his charming niece, Alexandra, who cares for every detail in the house, which is as stylish as a boutique hotel can be – king sized beds with white linen and fluffy robes, Occitane ammenities, wide TV screens, DVD´s, Perrier bottles in the mini bar and walk in showers for two. Some even have a jacuzzi. She also looks after her guests as if they were old-time friends.

A recent makeover turned le Relais into a refuge for couples in search of a romantic overnight stay, as well as foreign tourists who want to run away from Rio´s madding crowd. You do, indeed, have the best view from every angle of the guesthouse, as there is a 60 kilometers´stretch of sand splashed right in front, known as the Restinga de Marambaia. Unfortunately, it´s inaccessible to anyone except the military, reason for this area to remain immaculate and untouched. You may swim right there and nearby, but you can´t set foot on the beach.

But ( and a big BUT) Alexandra invites her guests to explore similar (and hidden) gems like this one, deserted beaches which are nestled around the area. Simply board one of the fishermen´s boats, which can be hired right in loco, and go for a little ride. These beaches are only reached by sea or hiking. So, for sure, you´ll feel like Robinson Crusoe…

Le Relais de Marambaia

Estrada Roberto Burle Marx 9346

www.lerelaisdemarambaia.com.br

tel. 5521 23942544

Tibau do Sul, a place to call your own

Tibau do Sul, a place to call your own

deserted beaches dolphins exclusive resort lagoons Rio Grande do Norte stand up paddle Tibau do Sul

adword January 16, 2011 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

As I told you before New Year´s Eve, I was going to hide myself in one of those special hubs of the northeast, a place called Tibau do Sul.
Since the last decade, I´ve been coming to this hidden gem where you are bound to find deserted beaches even during high season and holidays.

Considering that I wanted to break my city-style routine, Tibau do Sul has a clutch of luxurious attributes, such as no routine, to begin with. And no internet around, too.
Next, you become an early bird even if this doesn´t appetize you. The breeze crossing leisurely across the coconut leaves sounds like a wake up call - and music along the day.

Breakfast with an overview – the sea, the skyline of sandy beaches in the horizon, the blue sea, the mood of the tide…Then a stroll in the village, with a shopping list – what are we having for lunch??? Check with the fisherman´s stock, right across the bakery.

When the tide starts to get lower, natural small swimming pools form all along the shore. The water is translucid. You just have to dip in it, with a book in your hand, tons of sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and soak in the warmth of the rays.

If you´re the sportive kind of guy, then get ready to surf among dolphins in the Praia do Madeiro, test your skills with a paddle on stand-up boards on the lagoon, go for a horseriding adventure on the beach, challenge your fear by being a passenger on a parapente experience – the professional who will be piloting is an expert, so don’t worry….Or just hire a buggy and explore the surrounding beaches, either by going north or south on the dunes and sand. No toll road in these itineraries.

And as far as food is concerned, you shall spoil yourself rotten on fresh produce from the sea, plus coconut water, capirinhas, cold beer and fusion food in many restaurants of nearby Pipa. This fishermen´s village was once what Tibau used to be, but lost its tranquility to fancy hotels, fashionable tourism and rock´n roll.

On the other hand, expect to eat well and choose from Thai to tapas, including French, Italian, Peruvian, and, naturally, regional potiguar (originally from Rio do Grande do Norte state) specialities.

But if you´re too lazy to turn on the engine of the car and drive 6 kilometers, then you can still relish on the fresh oysters which can be ordered in some of the unsophisticated restaurants of Tibau. Or typical dishes such as bobó de camarão ( a recipe blending shrimps, coconut milk, turnip and fresh herbs), washed down with a chope – beer from the tap.

Then, as you are in the northeast, there are hammocks in every corner of the house, including on the terrace, in which you feel obliged to take a nap every afternoon, after (late) lunch.

The taste of caipifrutas, a national drink

The taste of caipifrutas, a national drink

caipirinhas cashew drink fresh tropical fruits

adword January 10, 2011 Add Comment

by Antonella Kann

I am pretty sure that anyone who sets foot in Brazil is immediately aware that there is a certain drink that cannot be ignored once in the country – anywhere. And this is about ridiculously delicious caipirinhas, or for those more experienced, the caipifrutas, which blend in with every single fresh fruit you may imagine. Those drinks are manipulated following the barman´s wits, and are also decorated, so you appreciate it with your eyes. And easily fall in love at first sight.


The word caipi will sound familiar as soon as you enter a bar, be it on the sidewalk of the beach or any restaurant. Caipirinha will then become familiar in a split second, and from this point you´ll become addicted. The mix between lemon, sugar, ice and either cachaça ( the alcoholic beverage made from sugar cane) or vodka will remain forever in you palate and also in your vocabulary, even if caipirinha is the only word which you´ll memorize.

Any fresh fruit, tropical or not, can represent the main ingredient for this amazing drink, like kiwi, cashew, grapes, lichia ( absolutely divine!), strawberries, lime, passion fruit, pineapple, and many others. Moreover, imagination is the limit, so you can even invent some fusions, like the perfect combination of lemon with passion fruit, and also add ginger, for instance. Let´s say, whatever crosses your mind, just give it a try.

Also, this recipe is no secret. Many restaurants around the world, as in Paris or even small Californian town like Laguna Beach has somehow adopted it. The making-off is so simple that anyone can give it a try at home. And amaze your friends with a little Brazilian touch during a happy hour!