Monday, 8 February 2010

Brazilian street art: the creative genius of Carlos Dias

Brazilian street art: the creative genius of Carlos Dias

Sad for those who missed it, but Brazil's most important museum, the MASP in São Paulo, had a great street art exhibition on, which ended early February. I went and instantly fell in love with the work of Carlos Dias, which reminded me of that other great street artist I've always loved: Basquiat. Check it out:

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210 Diner: haute burger craze arrives in São Paulo

210 Diner: haute burger craze arrives in São Paulo

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São Paulo is never far behind as far as trends are concerned. It has its speakeasies (Sub Astor is the best one), its tecnoemotional restaurant (D.O.M.), and now, right on the heels of NY, a pig-centric high-end burger joint.




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It's called 210 Diner and it's owned by chef Benny Novak, the same guy behind the excellent Tappo Trattoria.

On the menu:


- Burgers
- Baby Back Ribs
- House-smoked Bacon with maple syrup
- Eggs Benedict

- Grilled meats like Rib Eye, Porter House, NY Strip, Skirt Steak.
- Matze Ball Soup
- Philli Steak Sandwich
- Tuna Melt Sandwich
- Onion rings and chicken wings


Devil’s food cake
Red Velvet Cake
Cookies
Apple Pie
Cheesecake



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Diner 210: Rua Pará, 210, Higienópolis, tel. 3661-1219

And more of chef Benny Novak on this blog:
Tappo Trattoria, a great little Italian in the Jardins district

Tuesday, 26 January 2010

Livraria da Vila, in the Jardins district of São Paulo: beautiful architecture!

Livraria da Vila, in the Jardins district of São Paulo: beautiful architecture!

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Isay Weinfeld: remember this name. He is the number one architect in Brazil, today. And very prolific: in recent years he's designed countless mansions, stores and restaurants. He's most famous for his work for the Fasano group (including the Fasano hotel), but I am particularly enamoured with his project of the bookstore Livraria da Vila, an outpost of the original flagship in Vila Madalena.

The newer Livraria da Vila, in the heart of the posh Jardins district, is nothing short of stunning.

Pivoting doors contain, in the interior, bookshelves. The solid, concrete rectangular box contains 3 levels, and oval and square cutouts reveal glimpses of the other floors as one stands on the ground floor.

Bookshelves are purposely assymetrical and heavily loaded, mimmicking a used book store. Comfy indigo-covered couches are a nice break from the formality of the architecture.



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Nas duas laterais do longo retângulo, paredes repletas de estantes de livros, cuidadosamente desalinhadas. Aqui e ali, sofás revestidos de tecido jeans, e recortes inesperados, revelando geometrias de impacto.


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Oh, and I guess I've got to tell you about the books! Fear not: there are thousands of great finds in English, French, you name it. It is quite possibly the best bookstore in town.






Livraria da Vila: Al. Lorena, 1731, tel. (55-11) 3062-1063
São Paulo Fashion Week: Gloria Coelho's runway show

São Paulo Fashion Week: Gloria Coelho's runway show

Great show, at the Iguatemi shopping mall, with a very high celeb quotient. Here are a few pics I took...

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Mariana Ximenes, a soap opera star


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Gloria's looks

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and one of my faves

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Actress Bruna Lombardi (the blonde) congratulating Gloria, in the backstage.

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Gloria Coelho and Bruna Lombardi

spfw_gloria_coelho7Vestido era Jetsons

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More Gloria...

And here, a video of the whole show:







Gloria Coelho: Rua Bela Cintra, 2173, Jardins, São Paulo, tel. (55-11) 3085-6671
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São Paulo's Fashion Week just ended, and on a very high note. Bigger and better each year, it was praised by the international media, including The New York Times's  T Magazine blog. They said:


"São Paulo fashion week is still coming into its own, but it certainly gives good show. From a slew of supermodels to unmarked after-parties, the cool quotient held its own against the more traditional fashion capitals. This season’s model check saw Lara Stone walking for Forum Tufi Duek, Brazil’s prodigal son Jesus Luz doing an awkward catwalk turn for Ellus, Alessandra Ambrosio filling in for Gisele at Colcci, Isabeli Fontana opening for Alexandre Herchcovitch and Chanel Iman at Rosa Cha.

Off the runway there was plenty of action as well. Jesus Luz D.J.’d at the week’s biggest bash, for Ellus, at São Paulo’s newest nightspot, Lion’s Club, and Alexander Herchcovitch had a post-show party at Bar Secreto, an unassuming two-story bungalow that houses all manner of decadence.

(...) 


All in all, it’s not a stretch to imagine a near-future when São Paolo fashion week is as important a part of the fashion circuit as, say, London. Add one more fashion capital to your global itinerary!"

Monday, 25 January 2010

Hotel Fasano, in São Paulo: a video




by Karin Dauch, photos by Alexandra Forbes


I’m on the NY-SP shuttle quite often. A room away from home which is not only consecutively but consistently excellent, deserves to be called a second home.

It’s not always that I stay at my favorite, Fasano, but every time I do, I am always pleased to see the welcoming concierge, helpful staff, thoughtful waiters and automatic upgrades for repeat customers. And of course, you can’t beat the location, positioned in the heart of Jardins, the most charming neighborhood of this bustling metropolis. Restaurants (Dalva & Dito, Antiquarius, Arabia) are walking distance, not to mention the best stores lined up on nice to stroll streets (Louis Vuitton and Cartier are on the adjacent block.)

When I last visited less than a month ago, I made a little movie that captures the soul of this modern classic paulistano...



Monday, 11 January 2010

Best restaurants in Trancoso by Wilbert Das, owner of Uxua Casa Hotel



Wilbert Das, who retired on December 31 from his longtime position as Diesel's creative director, owns one of the hippest little hotels in Trancoso, Brazil's glammest beach destination: the Uxua Casa Hotel (pictured above).

He spends good part of the year in Trancoso and he wrote a great list of restaurant recommendations for the guests of his hotel, which I am now sharing here:

Trancoso dining by Uxua's Wilbert Das

As tiny as Trancoso appears to be, it offer a tremendous variety of food, running the gamut from salt-of-the-earth Bahian home cooking to the freshest sushi.

Of course, local chefs are always available for preparing catered meals in each UXUA casa.

LAILA ADIPE ASSEF BISTRO

This inviting dining room (which resembles a living room) features Laila’s tasty home cooking – and a passel of guest chefs over the course of the year.

MARITACA
A Trancoso hot spot offers informal pizzas, risottos and anything else that is easy to eat, plus a well-regarded wine list.

CACAU
Take Bahia, add a dash of contemporary sophistication, and you get this intimate dinner spot, set in a garden beside the historic Quadrado.

SABOR DA BAHIA
One of the first restaurants you’ll find when you enter the Quadrado, Sabor Da Bahia serves a mouthwatering Brazilian ‘Picanha’ with toasted vegetables, pineapple and french fries. Owned by a native family, the restaurant also serves traditional Bahian food and it opens for breakfast, serving home-made yoghurt at its open air tables.

CAPIM SANTO
This mix of trendy with traditional is among the oldest in town and has a creative menu signed by well-known chef Sandra Marques.

SUSHI TRANCOSO
Believe it or not, Japanese raw fish has long been popular in this remote fishing village – and here it’s served a mere 1-minute walk from the Quadrado.

MASALA
Fusion Asian cuisine, here? Why, of course, at this popular spot in the heart of Trancoso’s nightlife and only a two-minute walk from the Quadrado.

CANTINHO DOCE
Traditional Bahian cuisine rules at this open-air restaurant facing the church. Remember to leave room for the desserts, which are renowned throughout the village.

RESTAURANTE DA SILVANA

Set on the people-watching-conducive Quadrado, this restaurant features homestyle cooking a la Silvana, privy to the “original secrets” of Bahian cuisine.

EL GORDO
This culinary stunner is set on a cliff facing the ocean and is perfect for proposals, romance and anything else in need of a dose of drama. Includes a sushi bar and is sister restaurant of two well-regarded spots in the Bario Alto of Lisbon.

SABOR DO MUNDO
A mélange of European and Asian cuisine, thanks to the Dutch chef who has set up shop here in a bid to explore life in rural Brazil.

IL MERCATO
This Italian trattoria-slash-antiques shop has ocean views and a convenient location on the right side of the Quadrado.



PIZZOKERO
2 minutes walk from the Quadrado, this bar and restaurant is owned by an Italian Rasta who has been living in Bahia for nearly twenty years. Serving great pizzas and general Italian food, there is also a snooker table on the top floor. And on Tuesday and Saturday, live music make it the meeting point of the town.

LA NO DOM
Every beach village in the world has a famous sandwich place. In Trancoso it is LA NO DOM. Dom is the name of the guy who prepares tasteful pita-bread sandwiches with his famous eggplant sauce for over 15 years.

BEACH BARS


Life is not food alone. The beaches are dotted with places at which to enjoy the perfect sundowner.

UXUA PRAIA BAR (below)
UXUA’s own beach bar boasts a picturesque setting between the Trancoso River and Atlantic Ocean, is the only bar on Praia da Barra, and wears its green heart on its sleeve (it’s made partly from rebuilt fishing boats found on the property).




CABANA DO ANDREA
The brainchild of Andrea, an Italian native who came to Brazil in 1999, this bar is a true hybrid. Set on Coqueiros beach and marked by a Sardinian flag on the top, it also serves up deliciously authentic pizzas and fresh local fish.

PE NA PRAIA

Located on Rio Verde beach, this bar is frequented by the young and beautiful and is only 1.7 km from the Quadrado.

TOSTEX
Where would a beach town, even a remote one, be without a local nighttime hotspot? This club fits that description, with its dance music, special summer parties and visits from world-famous DJs.

Here, an amazing slideshow of photos by Fernando Lombardi of the Uxua Casa Hotel.

And more Trancoso on this blog:



  1. Uxua, the newest luxury boutique hotel in Trancoso
  2. Uxua's Casa Seu João: see photos
  3. 2010 Pirelli calendar is photographed by Terry Richardson at the Uxua
  4. Jacaré do Brasil: my favourite Trancoso pousada
  5. A complete listing of hotels and pousadas that I recommend
  6. Terravista: one of the world's most beautiful golf courses
  7. Trancoso: all the best restaurants
  8. Trancoso and Espelho: top 5 things to do
  9. A slideshow of my favourite Trancoso photos
  10. Tauana hotel, in Corumbau, South of Trancoso